Click for  9 exterior pictures

Click for 14 interior pictures

Click for 2 engine/trunk pictures

More info on Fleetwoods and other big Cadillacs:
www.fleetwood.demon.nl   www.cadillaclasalleclub.org  1969 Fleetwood 75 sales brochure

Here is a 1969 Cadillac Fleetwood Seventy-Five limousine, the largest production-line car on the planet, with about 30,500 miles on it. I owned it for about a year and a half, but sold it because of work demands and time.  It is big, comfortable, rare, and I really miss it. It was great fun for trips or nights on the town. Here's some info from the description I put on Ebay when selling it in December 2002.

It's Rare
Cadillac began the Fleetwood limousine series more than sixty years ago. Even in peak years, only about two thousand were built each year, with production split more or less evenly between a limousine model with division window and a sedan version without. This particular car is one of only 1,156 limo models built in 1969 (for comparison, Chevrolet made 38,000 Corvettes that year). I don't know how many are still around, but it must be a very small number. Most found their way to funeral homes, corporations, or limo services. A few, including this one, were bought by individuals (more info on the original owner below). The car probably spent most of the last 33 years in a garage, because the interior looks almost like the car rolled off the assembly line this morning. Like all 75 limos, the front compartment is black leather. The front seat had a fabric cover over it for decades, so the original leather is in gorgeous shape. The rear interior is a beautiful light silvery gray-green color upholstered in fabric. The car itself is (I think) Phantom Gray, which is a very dark gray metallic with a hint of green. The woodgrain trim inside the car is real wood. And, the car has the optional vinyl roof, in fantastic shape. The bumpers are straight with some fine hazing on the rear one, the chrome bezels on the signals and taillights have only very minor wear, the front fenders have the usual rust at the bottom, the paint is fair, and the body is straight except for a crease in one door.

You already know that an old DeVille, Eldorado, or Cadillac convertible gets lots of smiles. This car stands out even more than they do. In my area there are lots of modern stretch limos. You know what I mean--the rolling jukeboxes that beg for attention with ridiculous length and lights plastered all over the outside.  This car is different. Heads swivel, people talk to you at stoplights and gas stations, and teenagers and grandparents alike seem to think it's really cool.

It's Big
It certainly is a big car. When at a stoplight with front bumpers lined up, the driver is usually about even with the other car's rear seat or trunk. In other words, the hood is almost as long as some cars. Sitting in the back seat of the Cadillac, you can look at the rear license plate of the other car. Here are some statistics:

21.5 feet long, 5500 lbs, can seat up to 9 people, holds 26 gallons of gas, 6 gallons of coolant, 3 gallons of transmission fluid, and 5 quarts of oil.
472-inch (7.7 liter) V-8 with 10.5:1 compression, 375 horsepower, and 525 ft. lbs. of torque.
special 3.21 rear axle (a higher ratio than other Cadillacs, to help acceleration)
The car requires premium gas.  At 55 mph, it gets 13-14 miles per gallon.  At a steady 70-75 it gets 11-12 miles mpg.


It's Loaded
Gadgets? Of course. What good is a car without lots of fun gadgets? It has almost everything, except cruise control, twilight sentinel/autodimming headlights, and rear seat warmers.

Power windows  -- they work, but the front passenger door motor gear needs replacing (not the whole motor but the gear--see "What it needs" below)
power door locks -- they work, but the front door lock linkage needs lubricating  (see "What it needs" below)
power disk brakes -- they work
power seat -- it works
power antenna -- it works
remote trunk release -- it works
3-speed windshield wipers--they work
power trunk lid pull-down (so passengers aren't bothered with a loud slam) -- it works
tilt/telescope steering wheel -- it works smooth as silk
a map light in the dash -- it works
automatic parking brake release -- it works
overhead light in the front seat -- it works
cornering lights for the driver's convenience -- they work
folding jumpseats for three people -- they look like they've never been used
power division window between front and back so passengers can enjoy their privacy -- it works fast and quietly
automatic level control for the suspension -- it works, but needs one minor fix to the regulator (see "What it needs" below)
rim-blow horn (squeeze the steering wheel) -- it works
adjustable footrests in the rear
reading lights (bright and focused right in your lap where you'd hold a book)
rear center folding armrest (with built-in storage compartment)
rear seat radio controls (AM!)
six ashtrays and four lighters -- they work
TWO automatic climate control systems--one for the front, one for the back
The limo version has a couple of differences in its set-up relative to the regular sedan:
--By design, the driver can't lower the rear windows, only close them.
--Only the driver and the rear right passenger have power door lock switches.
--The right rear door has its own keyed lock.
--Only the rear passengers can control the division window.
--Both rear passengers can control all the rear windows, but the one on the right gets the AC and radio controls, which are hidden in an armrest.


It's Nice to Drive
The driving experience? Well, the car has less than 31,000 miles on it--with fresh swaybar rubber and new shocks all around, it's quite stable on the highway. I have taken it on several 600-800 mile roundtrips, and it's a pleasure on the highway at 70-75 mph. Once you get used to the width, long wheelbase, and enormous blind spots in the rear quarters, the light steering, power brakes, and easy-to-reach controls make driving it relatively easy.  Being a passenger is even better. Although you can use the jump seats and stuff half a dozen people into the back, it's best enjoyed with 1-2 friends. Endless legroom, headroom, and shoulder room. Your friends or family can settle into the upholstery and float until you come open the door for them.

It Has a Neat History

Given the uniqueness of the car, I suspected it would have an interesting history.  It was bought by Lucy Moses of New York. She and her husband Henry donated tens of millions of dollars for a variety of causes in and around the city, including the Lucy Moses School of Music and Dance, a center for students with disabilities at New York University, endowed professorships at Yale, Columbia, and CUNY, and a division of Montefiori Medical Center in the Bronx. I even have a note about the fact that she financed the restoration of the bridge in Central Park. And, if you visit Central Park in the summer, you can cruise the lake on a 37 foot gondola built in Venice that she donated to the city.  They even gave her the first Frederick Olmstead Award (he designed the park) for her efforts to restore the park. Sounds like she was a neat woman.
 

Repairs and Improvements
I'm a big believer in preventive maintenance and in sensible upgrades. Any old car, even a low mileage one like this, has at least three big areas where significant problems are likely to begin popping up simply because of age: deteriorating rubber components, corroding cooling systems, and rusting brakes.  It makes sense to start dealing with those things before they become problems. Then, over time, there are fewer and fewer things to go wrong unexpectedly.  No, the car is not 100% fixed/updated, but that leaves some fun projects for you. But, you can tell from the following that I pay attention to details. The car comes with an genuine original 1969 Cadillac service manual and a re-issued 1969 body manual. Each one is hundreds of pages long and explains systems and procedures in incredible detail. These are the most comprehensive guides there are!

I replaced the spark plugs, plug wires, ignition rotor button and distributor cap, and converted to a Pertronix electronic ignition and a Petronix high output coil, so there are no points to slip.  I have these systems in three cars and they have been completely reliable. Depending on how you use the car, octane of your local gas, and so on, you may want to adjust the timing to match your own needs. But, once you set it, it's done. Some old cars are in lousy tune and require frequent timing and dwell adjustment. This one doesn't!
Fuel and vacuum systems

The gas gauge works fine and seems to be highly accurate. I spent some time under the rear of the car when replacing the shocks and airlines, and I did not see any evidence of gas tank leakage. Occasionally I add a can of gas-dry to the tank just in case any moisture has accumulated, and I keep the tank full of gas.  I also add fuel stabilizer to the gas to discourage any varnish or deposits forming in the fuel system.

The car originally had the emissions control air injection pump, but it was discarded years ago, along with the bracket. I have not replaced it, but you could if you wanted complete originality or if your state's licensing requires it.

I installed a new fuel pump. The old one worked great, but was 33 years old and the diaphragm in it would eventually fail.. I replaced the old rubber fuel hose sections in the engine compartment with R9 fuel hose. That's the high-grade hose for fuel injection systems, and it's much tougher than the cheap R7 hose usually used in old cars.  There's also an additional in-line filter before the fuel pump, new vacuum lines all over the engine, and a very carefully rebuilt carburetor. Following the carb adjustment procedures in the shop manual to the letter took some time, but it starts and runs like a charm now. The only thing missing is the hot idle vacuum control on the rear of the carburetor. I had to borrow a piece from it to repair the choke vacuum pull-off. However, the hot idle vacuum control operates only when the engine is idling and very hot, so it makes no difference in the normal course of events. The '68 Cadillac carbs didn't even have it.  Some old cars have fuel and vacuum systems that are in lousy shape, leaky, and ready to fail. This one doesn't!
 

Heating/Cooling
This car has separate heating systems for the front and rear. So, if you want a reliable heating/cooling system, you have to do a lot, and you have to do it right. This car has a new front heater core, a new rear heater core, new hot water valves for the front and rear systems, a new heavy duty thermostatic fan clutch, a new water pump, a new radiator cap, a new 185 degree thermostat, new fan belts, new radiator hoses, new heater hoses (including 20 feet of expensive "red" hose for the hot water line to the rear system--it lasts a very long time and has less heat loss than regular heater hose). The end tanks from the original radiator were used to build a monstrous new 4-row radiator, and the car has a high-quality Hayden plate-type auxiliary transmission cooler The cooling system is filled with a 50/50 mix using Sierra low-toxicity antifreeze. Cadillac was ahead of other makers by making a coolant recovery tank standard, so you're a lot less likely to run low on antifreeze. Almost all of the hose clamps are stainless steel, so you don't have to deal with rusty clamps. On the long hoses underneath the car, I double-clamped the ends to reduce the chance of leaks in this hard-to-reach area. The ONLY piece of original heater hose left in the system is a 1-foot long piece in the rear system, inside the trunk. It's got a couple of molded curves in it but is firm and has not been exposed to the elements or to engine compartment heat, so I didn't worry about replacing it. Some old cars have heating/cooling systems that are clogged, corroded, and ready to fail, or they have some new parts mixed in with a lot of original ones. Except for a 1-foot molded hose and a couple of hose clamps I might have re-used, this car's cooling system is ALL new!

Air conditioning

The Fleetwood 75s have dual AC systems. This car has a remanufactured A6 compressor, a new receiver-drier, and 5.25 pounds of virgin Freon. I have an EPA certification to buy Freon, and it goes for around $20 a pound.  So, the car has over $300 worth of new AC parts in it, never mind the hours and hours of labor. The AC system also has ultraviolet leak detector dye in it--in the unlikely event something goes wrong, all you need is a UV light to find the source of the leak.  Old car AC systems usually leak because of dried-out O-rings, so I replaced every one I could find in the front of the car, under the car, and in the rear AC system. There are two tiny ones I couldn't get to, which are on the expansion valve in the front system. Since recharging the system, I have found no evidence that they are leaking. The AC hoses are in fine shape, so I didn't replace them. The system has a carefully-calculated and measured correct quantity of fresh lubricating oil. To do that, you have to follow procedure, which includes draining the old oil from components--condensor, front and rear evaporators, POA/STV valves, etc, doing some calculations, and so on. When recharging the system I pulled something like 29 inches of vacuum for a few hours, rechecked it a few hours later, and there was no loss. After filling the system with Freon, I have gone back a couple of times in the last few months and rechecked the system pressure--there's no loss, and high and low side pressures are as specified in the 75-series section of the shop manual.  The air comes out the vents at the temperatures specified in the manual.  Some people selling old cars say "ice-cold AC". Well, that isn't really possible because the evaporator cores would ice up and stop working. I don't rely on "feel" or fuzzy statements when doing repairs--I rely on specifications and tools. So I used gauges, a humidity indicator, an outside air thermometer, and an AC vent thermometer, and achieved exactly the charge and temperatures specified by Cadillac.

Some old cars are very uncomfortable when sitting in traffic jams in humid 95 degree weather. This one is an air-conditioned oasis!

There are a couple of control details still to be sorted out. Since I was using the car this past summer, I set the system to default to maximum AC in the rear (I believe that a small control component in the trunk system may need replacing). Also, the valve that controls the air purge door in the front system works seems to work inconsistently.   The systems are logical, but a bit complicated. Fortunately, the systems were intact and complete when I got the car, and I have worked on it carefully and methodically.
 

Brakes

The car is low mileage, and the brakes had very little wear on them. However, some things don't age well. including certain brake parts. So, this car has a new master cylinder, front brake calipers, front brake hoses, front brake lines from the metering valve to the wheels, and the long brake line from the distribution block to the rear of the car. All of these are susceptible to internal corrosion with age.   The new calipers came loaded, but I went ahead and installed the famous (and expensive) Performance Friction "Carbon Metallic" brake pads, which are known for braking power and long life.  With only 30,000 miles, the original brake rotors were in great shape, so I reused them. You can tell they're the original rotors since they're the two-part design (separate rotor and hub) and have the concentric groove built into the center of the friction area. I also added speed-bleeders to the front calipers so one person can bleed them, and covered them with vacuum line caps to keep out dirt/corrosion.  There are some sections of brake hardline that have not been replaced, but I have the rest of the replacement kit to be used for this. I also have the rear brake hose that goes from the frame to the axle, and one new rear wheel cylinder as a spare. When the car was inspected last year the rear cylinders and shoes were fine.

One thing which I have not replaced is the brake distribution block/warning light switch. Apparently someone in the past did not properly center the switch when bleeding the brakes, and as a result it stuck in place so that the brake warning light is always on.  The switch can't be repaired--it has to be replaced--and I haven't taken the time to find one.

The parking brake cables are a little funky as you would expect after 33 years, and could probably stand to be replaced, but the parking brake does work. And, it releases automatically when you shift out of Park. Pretty cool, huh.

Some old cars have scary original/mostly original brake systems. This one stops smoothly, promptly, and without drama!
 

Suspension

Shocks don't age well, either, and the rubber boots on the original-equipment air shocks had rupured. Now the car has high-pressure KYB gas shocks in front, genuine Delco air shocks in the back, new rubber for the swaybar bushings and endlinks, and new air lines and fittings throughout the automatic level control system. I also rebuilt the air compressor and regulator. The pump builds pressure, the system doesn't leak, and the car maintains a level ride height like it should.

Yes, the car handles like a big old Cadillac, but in this case it handles like a brand-new big old Cadillac (actually better with those KYB shocks). The car is built for a very soft ride, but you'll be amazed at how well it deals with lane changes, bumps, etc. No, it doesn't handle like a Corvette, and you don't want to forget how long the car is (no tight turns), and you have to turn your head to look before changing lanes because of the big blind spots created by the roofline.  The steering is very light and tight, the suspension is stable, and I've driven it on the Interstate for hours at 70-75 mph.

I've also replaced the driver's side motor mount and the transmission mount. Again, rubber doesn't age well. I ran out of time and didn't replace the passenger side one.

Some old cars are scary at highway speed because of worn-out shocks, steering, and suspension. This one isn't!
 

Exhaust

I put on a new Walker muffler, tailpipe, and resonator, and the car became very quiet. At idle it had a very subtle deep burble which reminds me of a powerboat idling at the dock. On the road it sounded like an antique Cadillac limousine should--quiet!  However, right before I sold the car it would become louder in the front of the exhaust system when shifted into gear out of neutral/park. Take it out of gear and it gets quieter. As mentioned above, the passenger side motor mount is worn, and it sounds like that the enormous torque of the engine may be twisting the engine against the worn motor mount enough that the "donut" gasket that seals the downpipe to the exhaust manifold cannot maintain a tight seal.  These donut gaskets are easily replaced by a muffler shop. Also,  my driveway has a severe hump in it, and the exhaust dragged over it, which may have contributed to the problem. The exhaust is new from the muffler back, but the front pipe is original, so replacing it would be necessary at some point anyway.
 

What else:

I've replaced all the other regular things you'd expect--air filter, PCV filter, wiper blades, belts. Oh, the windshield washer pump is new, too.

Window tinting--I'm usually not a big fan of window-tinting, but I found some for the back windows that has a modest tint and blocks UV light almost completely. The divider window also has a dark UV-blocking tint on it. That seems like a fair compromise, along with a truly monstrous car cover, to protect the gorgeous interior.

Seat belts--The front seat now has black modern 3-point seat/shoulder belts from Andover Auto for the front seat.  Squeezing them in was a bit of a task, but it sure beats undergoing facial reconstruction surgery in the event of an accident.  The center position is still a lap belt. I'm including the removed original lap belts and separate shoulder belts.  The back seat still has the original color-matching lap belts (for 3 people), and they look great. The jumpseats were not designed with seatbelts.
 

A last comment

Lots of people seem to think that "original" means that everything's truly okay, or that "restored" means fresh paint. Well, an "original" old car needs lots of things before it's genuinely reliable, safe, and comfortable, and paint doesn't make a car run well.  Any mostly original antique car is going to need many of the things I have done to this one. I think most sellers are honest, but that some don't really understand what classic cars are and need. I don't claim to know everything, or to have fixed everything, but I hope you can see from the pictures and from my description that honesty and attention to detail mean a lot to me.

Reliability, safety, and comfort mean a lot to me, too. My daily driver is a 1970 Olds Toronado with more than 110,000 miles on it. I drove it from Virginia to Colorado and back this summer. The only tools I took along were a Swiss Army knife, pliers and duct tape, and the trip was 4000 miles at 70-80 mph in two weeks without a single problem,   (Well, except for when I locked the keys in the car...)