This file lists the necessary 69/70 parts, with some example parts numbers. I used to have some prices, but there's so much variation it doesn't make sense to list them. Shop around.

Note that 69-70 steering knuckles use the Gen 1 balljoints. 71- knuckles will work if you use 71- balljoints.
Here's where it gets wierder. There are two kinds of 69/70 knuckles. Early ones don't have casting numbers. Later ones have the numbers 407144 and 407145 (different number for right and left) cast into the inner side of the knuckle above the lower ball joint. What's the difference? As far as I can figure, the only difference is in the fitting for the outer tie rod ends. If you stick the available outer 69-70 tie rod end (Moog ES412 RL) into an early knuckle, the bolt shaft is about 3/8 of an inch too long. In other words, it seems like the early casting has a thinner fitting for the shaft to press into. However, the original-style tie rod with the shorter bolt shaft does not seem to be available anywhere. Don't freak out. The taper of the early knuckle is as far as I can tell identical to the taper of the thick part of the ES412 tie rod end. So, what I did on a car was to install the tie rod, put several appropriately-sized stainless steel washers onto the exposed end of the bolt shaft to fill the gap up to the beginning of the threads, then torqued down the nut and cotterpin as usual. The tie rod end is thus completely seated as it should be, held tightly in place, and the cotterpin working as it should.
 

Some parts come from the junkyard. The new or rebuilt ones can be found at parts stores, online stores, Kanter, etc.
 

• Knuckles (get from junkyard, keep the hubs)  
• Loaded calipers  (left and right)
• Front brake hoses United Brake Parts   36674 left, 36675 right
• Rotors Wagner BD60407 Bendix 141007 Raybestos 5802 Delco 18A1

• Wheel bearings & seals (or if the donor car has good ones, just use them)
• Master cylinder and booster.  Need one for disk-drum system, like a 69 or 70 disk Toro  (you can get separate or loaded MC/booster combo). If your booster is original, save the aggravation and get the combo.

• Distribution block junkyard
• Adjustable proportioning valve Generic unit  e.g., Stainless Steel Brakes Corp
• Disk brake compatible wheels--Use Toro disk wheels or Eldorado disk wheels

Optional

• Front end parts--inner tie rod ends, outer tie rod ends, idler arm, upper and lower control arm bushings, Pitman arm, sway bar endlinks and frame bushings
• Rebuilt front axles--you can use 67-78 Toro/Eldo axles, e.g. TRW 22268R        (This requires two solid axles--replacing the RH damper one which is trouble prone and not available anywhere)

• Axle spacer rings       Bolting the '67 forward axles to '66 output shaft requires spacer rings made by Dick Taschenberg as well as the '67-forward 12-point flange bolts which are longer than the '66 bolts--use Grade 8 !!!

For a full 4 wheel conversion, need rear brakes/MC parts for a 76-78 Cadillac Eldorado

• Brake backing plates junkyard (label sides clearly when you pull)
• Parking brake actuator levers junkyard  (label sides clearly when you pull)
• Actuator lever return springs junkyard  (label sides clearly when you pull)
• Hubs junkyard    (or machine 3/8 inch off the diameter of the Toro rear hubs)
• Rear calipers  '77 is Wagner L116349 (left), L116348 (right)  loaded ones

• Rotors    (same part number as front)
• Master cylinder  '76-78 Cadillac Eldorado

• Wheel bearings inner & outer